Ford 1975-1978 Mercury Marquis Steering Wheel Horn Pad Woodgrain Restoration Kit

The horn pad assembly is pictured for reference and to help illustrate the restoration process -  It is not included.   For sale here are the two Burled Walnut vinyl wrap decals only, in order for you to restore your own horn pad.  Note that the pictures show a Lincoln center emblem, the only difference between the Lincoln and Mercury models.

I will do the restoration work for you if you prefer.  Contact me for details or with any questions after reading the information below. 

The main picture shows typical color fading and trim plate degradation after 40+ years, even with an assembly in good shape otherwise.   Often the lower woodgrain sections can be cracked and crumbling as shown, and this kit will solve that problem also.  

This is a two-piece high quality decal kit for restoring the appearance of the 1970's Ford Family full-size, two-spoke, deluxe steering wheel horn pad woodgrain panels; the thin horn button above, and the larger trim plate panel below that surrounds the cruise control buttons (also works fine for cars without cruise control).   The woodgrain pattern is the genuine Ford burled pattern, NOT a generic look-alike.  

These steering wheel horn pads were used on several Ford / Lincoln / Mercury cars, and Ford trucks, from 1975 - 1986.  A few different woodgrain patterns were used - this one is called Burled Walnut.   There is a separate listing for the same kit but with the Majestic Walnut pattern used on the 1977-1980 Lincolns only, also a correct pattern copied from original OEM parts.  

The material is a 3M vinyl that is used for exterior automotive wraps. It is designed to be UV-fade resistant, durable, and flexible, able to follow most any shape. It has just a bit of stretch capability without distorting that makes it easy to fit exactly to flat or contoured surfaces. It also has just the right amount of light reflection. I trialed several different materials and this one is excellent for the application.  Both decals are laminated with a satin clear layer for extra protection, and to get that proper sheen.

1. The horn pad is separated from the steering wheel with two screws removed from the back side, then unplug the electrical connectors. 

2. Separate the cruise button surround by removing the four 5/16" speed nuts from the posts and gently pushing it forward and threading the wires through the hole in the center. Gently pry back the small plastic clips holding the cruise buttons in place and remove that complete button/harness assembly. 

3. There are two methods for preparing the trim plate, depending on the extent of damage to the original woodgrain layer.  For relatively minor damage, not extending more than about 1/4" from the ends, the damaged area can be filled with a plastic putty product, then sanded down to the original shape.   With more extensive damage, the entire woodgrain layer should be removed.  This exposes dips in the black base where the posts mount on the back side, and also rectangular holes along the bottom where cruise control button tabs are located.   These need to be filled and then sanded down to create as smooth a surface as possible.  The material is thin and will show any surface flaws.   Pictures are included to help clarify both methods.

4. Clean the smoothed surfaces with alcohol before applying decals.  Center the trim plate onto its decal and tape down one half to hold it securely in place.  The shape of the decal will fit perfectly centered when applied "in 3D".  Trim just a bit, roughly 1/8" to 3/16", of excess material. You want just enough material remaining to wrap over the edges firmly to the backside.  Too much left is a lot better than not enough...be careful here.

5. Remove the white backing from the half you're starting with, and start pressing the decal onto the base's front face surface, starting at the center and working outward to the end. Get the front face surface done and smooth with no wrinkles before starting to wrap it around the edges.

6. It helps to cut small snips into the excess border material, every inch or so around the perimeter, especially where it curves, to make wrapping the overlay over the edges easier.  You may also make snips at the edges of the cruise control button tabs to make that area come out neatly.  Continue to wrap the edges over to the back side, pulling just a bit as needed to keep any wrinkles out.  One of the pictures also shows the shaped cutouts that I usually make on the ends to make that part of the wrap easier.   A pair of tiny scissors helps a lot with this.  Fold in the top and bottom portions first, then the outer edge while holding it in tension.   Trim as needed for nicely shaped corners.

7. Remove the other half of the white backing material, and repeat for the remaining half of the trim plate.

8. Use an exacto knife or similar to cut "X" shapes into the center hole for the emblem, similarly for the two cruise control button openings, and fold that material onto the back side also. Now you have a nice wrapped edge all around, contoured to the exact shape, that will not lift and peel away, as with the original part.

9. Reverse steps to assemble the cruise buttons to the base, and the base to the horn pad. 

10. Lay the horn button overlay in place on top of the old one if it is completely intact, or remove the old horn button woodgrain completely if it is not.  After making sure the surface is clean and smooth, get it perfectly centered and then tape it down in place just off center as with the trim plate. I use electrical tape - it holds strongly enough and releases nicely. It might look like the decal is a millimeter or two short of reaching the edge - don't worry, it isn't, hang in there. 

11. Remove half of the backing and start applying, again working from center outward while holding a bit of tension in the decal with one hand and using your finger of the opposite hand to press and guide around the corner and toward the end, keeping all as centered as possible between the raised perimeter. You will find that the edge reaches perfectly, and if you were pulling a little harder, could even come out slightly long in which case simply trim to fit.  You can regulate how hard to be pulling as you get closer to the end and can anticipate where it will land.

Any questions, please ask - I am sincerely happy to help.

Thank you!

Perry Bush