4 Cats and a Herd Farm 0.25 g New Mexico #6. Hatch Type Chili. Non-GMO, OP/OG, Red or Green?
$14.90
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I'm offering a quarter gram or around 30 seeds, grown organically in my handmade Hot compost/Potting soil, using No-till techniques.
New Mexico #6 is a pepper of choice for Chile Rellenos, peppers stuffed with cheese, battered, and deep fried. The New Mexico line was developed by Dr. Fabián Garcia, at New Mexico State University in 1894, the first release being the New Mexico number 9 in 1913. Later the number 6 was released as a better shaped and firmer pepper for market, with a cooler "heat," at between 700 and 900 SHU.
New Mexico #6 is a pepper of choice for Chile Rellenos, peppers stuffed with cheese, battered, and deep fried. The New Mexico line was developed by Dr. Fabián Garcia, at New Mexico State University in 1894, the first release being the New Mexico number 9 in 1913. Later the number 6 was released as a better shaped and firmer pepper for market, with a cooler "heat," at between 700 and 900 SHU.
The New Mexico line of peppers starts in 1894 by Dr. Fabian Garcia at the Las Cruces College and the New Mexico College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. Today this is New Mexico State University. These peppers were developed from 14 different cultivars from across the state and southern Colorado. In 1913 Dr. Garcia released the "New Mexico #9." Later, in 1950, Dr. Roy Harper released the New Mexico #6, which yielded 23% more dry chile than ‘New Mexico No. 9,’ and was particularly well suited for the processing industry, and for producing green chile peppers for the fresh market.
These peppers were considered slower to dry than N.M.#9, and be better shaped than Anaheim, and the general piquancy was reduced in strength to between 700 and 900 SHU or Scoville Heat Units, grew uniform "medium green" pods, and grew lower, with lower branches "When grown under average conditions."
Scoville Heat Units, or Scoville Scale, is a method developed by an American Pharmacist to measure the Piquancy of peppers. It became known as the "Scoville Organoleptic Test," and is the standard for measuring the "heat" of chili peppers. The test is subjective, since the variables between the ability to detect the compounds responsible for the sensation, and the number of sensors to detect it fluctuate dramatically between individuals.
Scoville determined the concentration of capsaicinoids by taking a sample and adding it until it was detectable by the test panel of 5 individuals. In other words, the test subjects would taste the sample, and determine if they could feel the heat, if the answer was no, the sample would be increased until 3 out of 5 people could detect it. The Scoville scale ranges between 0 and 16 million, 16 million being pure Capsacin, the most active compound.
Capsacin itself is tasteless and odorless. We think of it as taste, because it's usually the first sensation we get, but is better described as "pain" The oil activates pain receptors in our mucous membranes and other parts of the body, including parts that clearly have no taste buds; one reason everyone associates the "double sensation," going in, coming out. One hypothesis for the appeal of chili peppers is that the body manufactures endorphins, to counteract the pain, and endorphins themselves are pleasurable. One Mexican describes eating a very hot pepper, saying that "When you eat a Habanero, it's as if your head is detached from your body.".
These peppers were considered slower to dry than N.M.#9, and be better shaped than Anaheim, and the general piquancy was reduced in strength to between 700 and 900 SHU or Scoville Heat Units, grew uniform "medium green" pods, and grew lower, with lower branches "When grown under average conditions."
Scoville Heat Units, or Scoville Scale, is a method developed by an American Pharmacist to measure the Piquancy of peppers. It became known as the "Scoville Organoleptic Test," and is the standard for measuring the "heat" of chili peppers. The test is subjective, since the variables between the ability to detect the compounds responsible for the sensation, and the number of sensors to detect it fluctuate dramatically between individuals.
Scoville determined the concentration of capsaicinoids by taking a sample and adding it until it was detectable by the test panel of 5 individuals. In other words, the test subjects would taste the sample, and determine if they could feel the heat, if the answer was no, the sample would be increased until 3 out of 5 people could detect it. The Scoville scale ranges between 0 and 16 million, 16 million being pure Capsacin, the most active compound.
Capsacin itself is tasteless and odorless. We think of it as taste, because it's usually the first sensation we get, but is better described as "pain" The oil activates pain receptors in our mucous membranes and other parts of the body, including parts that clearly have no taste buds; one reason everyone associates the "double sensation," going in, coming out. One hypothesis for the appeal of chili peppers is that the body manufactures endorphins, to counteract the pain, and endorphins themselves are pleasurable. One Mexican describes eating a very hot pepper, saying that "When you eat a Habanero, it's as if your head is detached from your body.".
All peppers need heat in order to start, or sprout. Whether the seed is placed in starting mix, a moist paper towel, or actually started in the garden, the soil needs to be very warm, between 80° and 90° F (27° and 32° C), and the soil needs to be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. It's for that reason I do not recommend planting directly into the garden. Starter pots are fine. I start mine in newspaper pots. My favorite for rolling newspaper, near impossible to find today, or kraft paper into pots is an empty spray paint can. The bottom is recessed, and the base is concave so the pot can be removed relatively easily.
Seedlings can be hardened off outside after danger of frost is gone. Soil in the starters should be kept moist and not soggy. The young plants should be given full sun. Breezes will help by stimulating strength in the roots and stems. Once the seedlings are 4 inches in height, they can be placed in a large container or garden soil. Plants can be sprayed with compost tea, a culture of beneficial microorganisms that can help to fight disease and build nutrition in the soils.
In No-Till gardening, I will build a hill or raised row of compost and other organic matter about 2 feet (600 mm) wide and around 12 inches (300 mm) deep, planting New Mexico #6 transplants 18 inches apart. Mulching around the base of the plants with leaves, grass clippings, straw, etc., will cover and keep the soil cool, retain moisture, suppress weeds, and help to improve soil. This soil doesn't offer much support, and the weight of the peppers can pull the plants over, so they need to be staked and loosely tied so the stems will not be constricted. Strips of an old 100% cotton T-shirt work well, and will decompose.
Seedlings can be hardened off outside after danger of frost is gone. Soil in the starters should be kept moist and not soggy. The young plants should be given full sun. Breezes will help by stimulating strength in the roots and stems. Once the seedlings are 4 inches in height, they can be placed in a large container or garden soil. Plants can be sprayed with compost tea, a culture of beneficial microorganisms that can help to fight disease and build nutrition in the soils.
In No-Till gardening, I will build a hill or raised row of compost and other organic matter about 2 feet (600 mm) wide and around 12 inches (300 mm) deep, planting New Mexico #6 transplants 18 inches apart. Mulching around the base of the plants with leaves, grass clippings, straw, etc., will cover and keep the soil cool, retain moisture, suppress weeds, and help to improve soil. This soil doesn't offer much support, and the weight of the peppers can pull the plants over, so they need to be staked and loosely tied so the stems will not be constricted. Strips of an old 100% cotton T-shirt work well, and will decompose.
Here's a video showing the basic formula for producing Worm or Compost tea. I don't even use the fish emulsion or liquid seaweed. My thinking is that the plants don't benefit so much from foliar feeding as much as the microorganisms that live on the surface of the plants. With a good strong population of the healthy microorganisms, the unhealthy ones have a much harder time getting a foothold.
How To Make Compost Tea The Easy Way - MrTerrym1964
This is a simple and easy way to make starter pots for transplants. The great thing about using these is you plant the entire pot, and it decomposes in the soil leaving the roots undisturbed. If you're concerned with the inks, all newspapers use mineral and soy oil based inks. Though the mineral oil is petroleum based, it's non-toxic and acceptable for use in the garden. The black pigment is Carbon Black, and organic.
Newspaper Plant Pots by Michele Made Me - Michele Pacey
How To Make Compost Tea The Easy Way - MrTerrym1964
This is a simple and easy way to make starter pots for transplants. The great thing about using these is you plant the entire pot, and it decomposes in the soil leaving the roots undisturbed. If you're concerned with the inks, all newspapers use mineral and soy oil based inks. Though the mineral oil is petroleum based, it's non-toxic and acceptable for use in the garden. The black pigment is Carbon Black, and organic.
Newspaper Plant Pots by Michele Made Me - Michele Pacey
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I'm offering a quarter gram or around 30 seeds, grown organically in my handmade Hot compost/Potting soil, using No-till techniques.
New Mexico #6 is a pepper of choice for Chile Rellenos, peppers stuffed with cheese, battered, and deep fried. The New Mexico line was developed by Dr. Fabián Garcia, at New Mexico State University in 1894, the first release being the New Mexico number 9 in 1913. Later the number 6 was released as a better shaped and firmer pepper for market, with a cooler "heat," at between 700 and 900 SHU.
New Mexico #6 is a pepper of choice for Chile Rellenos, peppers stuffed with cheese, battered, and deep fried. The New Mexico line was developed by Dr. Fabián Garcia, at New Mexico State University in 1894, the first release being the New Mexico number 9 in 1913. Later the number 6 was released as a better shaped and firmer pepper for market, with a cooler "heat," at between 700 and 900 SHU.
The New Mexico line of peppers starts in 1894 by Dr. Fabian Garcia at the Las Cruces College and the New Mexico College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. Today this is New Mexico State University. These peppers were developed from 14 different cultivars from across the state and southern Colorado. In 1913 Dr. Garcia released the "New Mexico #9." Later, in 1950, Dr. Roy Harper released the New Mexico #6, which yielded 23% more dry chile than ‘New Mexico No. 9,’ and was particularly well suited for the processing industry, and for producing green chile peppers for the fresh market.
These peppers were considered slower to dry than N.M.#9, and be better shaped than Anaheim, and the general piquancy was reduced in strength to between 700 and 900 SHU or Scoville Heat Units, grew uniform "medium green" pods, and grew lower, with lower branches "When grown under average conditions."
Scoville Heat Units, or Scoville Scale, is a method developed by an American Pharmacist to measure the Piquancy of peppers. It became known as the "Scoville Organoleptic Test," and is the standard for measuring the "heat" of chili peppers. The test is subjective, since the variables between the ability to detect the compounds responsible for the sensation, and the number of sensors to detect it fluctuate dramatically between individuals.
Scoville determined the concentration of capsaicinoids by taking a sample and adding it until it was detectable by the test panel of 5 individuals. In other words, the test subjects would taste the sample, and determine if they could feel the heat, if the answer was no, the sample would be increased until 3 out of 5 people could detect it. The Scoville scale ranges between 0 and 16 million, 16 million being pure Capsacin, the most active compound.
Capsacin itself is tasteless and odorless. We think of it as taste, because it's usually the first sensation we get, but is better described as "pain" The oil activates pain receptors in our mucous membranes and other parts of the body, including parts that clearly have no taste buds; one reason everyone associates the "double sensation," going in, coming out. One hypothesis for the appeal of chili peppers is that the body manufactures endorphins, to counteract the pain, and endorphins themselves are pleasurable. One Mexican describes eating a very hot pepper, saying that "When you eat a Habanero, it's as if your head is detached from your body.".
These peppers were considered slower to dry than N.M.#9, and be better shaped than Anaheim, and the general piquancy was reduced in strength to between 700 and 900 SHU or Scoville Heat Units, grew uniform "medium green" pods, and grew lower, with lower branches "When grown under average conditions."
Scoville Heat Units, or Scoville Scale, is a method developed by an American Pharmacist to measure the Piquancy of peppers. It became known as the "Scoville Organoleptic Test," and is the standard for measuring the "heat" of chili peppers. The test is subjective, since the variables between the ability to detect the compounds responsible for the sensation, and the number of sensors to detect it fluctuate dramatically between individuals.
Scoville determined the concentration of capsaicinoids by taking a sample and adding it until it was detectable by the test panel of 5 individuals. In other words, the test subjects would taste the sample, and determine if they could feel the heat, if the answer was no, the sample would be increased until 3 out of 5 people could detect it. The Scoville scale ranges between 0 and 16 million, 16 million being pure Capsacin, the most active compound.
Capsacin itself is tasteless and odorless. We think of it as taste, because it's usually the first sensation we get, but is better described as "pain" The oil activates pain receptors in our mucous membranes and other parts of the body, including parts that clearly have no taste buds; one reason everyone associates the "double sensation," going in, coming out. One hypothesis for the appeal of chili peppers is that the body manufactures endorphins, to counteract the pain, and endorphins themselves are pleasurable. One Mexican describes eating a very hot pepper, saying that "When you eat a Habanero, it's as if your head is detached from your body.".
All peppers need heat in order to start, or sprout. Whether the seed is placed in starting mix, a moist paper towel, or actually started in the garden, the soil needs to be very warm, between 80° and 90° F (27° and 32° C), and the soil needs to be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. It's for that reason I do not recommend planting directly into the garden. Starter pots are fine. I start mine in newspaper pots. My favorite for rolling newspaper, near impossible to find today, or kraft paper into pots is an empty spray paint can. The bottom is recessed, and the base is concave so the pot can be removed relatively easily.
Seedlings can be hardened off outside after danger of frost is gone. Soil in the starters should be kept moist and not soggy. The young plants should be given full sun. Breezes will help by stimulating strength in the roots and stems. Once the seedlings are 4 inches in height, they can be placed in a large container or garden soil. Plants can be sprayed with compost tea, a culture of beneficial microorganisms that can help to fight disease and build nutrition in the soils.
In No-Till gardening, I will build a hill or raised row of compost and other organic matter about 2 feet (600 mm) wide and around 12 inches (300 mm) deep, planting New Mexico #6 transplants 18 inches apart. Mulching around the base of the plants with leaves, grass clippings, straw, etc., will cover and keep the soil cool, retain moisture, suppress weeds, and help to improve soil. This soil doesn't offer much support, and the weight of the peppers can pull the plants over, so they need to be staked and loosely tied so the stems will not be constricted. Strips of an old 100% cotton T-shirt work well, and will decompose.
Seedlings can be hardened off outside after danger of frost is gone. Soil in the starters should be kept moist and not soggy. The young plants should be given full sun. Breezes will help by stimulating strength in the roots and stems. Once the seedlings are 4 inches in height, they can be placed in a large container or garden soil. Plants can be sprayed with compost tea, a culture of beneficial microorganisms that can help to fight disease and build nutrition in the soils.
In No-Till gardening, I will build a hill or raised row of compost and other organic matter about 2 feet (600 mm) wide and around 12 inches (300 mm) deep, planting New Mexico #6 transplants 18 inches apart. Mulching around the base of the plants with leaves, grass clippings, straw, etc., will cover and keep the soil cool, retain moisture, suppress weeds, and help to improve soil. This soil doesn't offer much support, and the weight of the peppers can pull the plants over, so they need to be staked and loosely tied so the stems will not be constricted. Strips of an old 100% cotton T-shirt work well, and will decompose.
Here's a video showing the basic formula for producing Worm or Compost tea. I don't even use the fish emulsion or liquid seaweed. My thinking is that the plants don't benefit so much from foliar feeding as much as the microorganisms that live on the surface of the plants. With a good strong population of the healthy microorganisms, the unhealthy ones have a much harder time getting a foothold.
How To Make Compost Tea The Easy Way - MrTerrym1964
This is a simple and easy way to make starter pots for transplants. The great thing about using these is you plant the entire pot, and it decomposes in the soil leaving the roots undisturbed. If you're concerned with the inks, all newspapers use mineral and soy oil based inks. Though the mineral oil is petroleum based, it's non-toxic and acceptable for use in the garden. The black pigment is Carbon Black, and organic.
Newspaper Plant Pots by Michele Made Me - Michele Pacey
How To Make Compost Tea The Easy Way - MrTerrym1964
This is a simple and easy way to make starter pots for transplants. The great thing about using these is you plant the entire pot, and it decomposes in the soil leaving the roots undisturbed. If you're concerned with the inks, all newspapers use mineral and soy oil based inks. Though the mineral oil is petroleum based, it's non-toxic and acceptable for use in the garden. The black pigment is Carbon Black, and organic.
Newspaper Plant Pots by Michele Made Me - Michele Pacey
Isin:
ITDNARN0JS5U
I'm offering a quarter gram or around 30 seeds, grown organically in my handmade Hot compost/Potting soil, using No-till techniques.
New Mexico #6 is a pepper of choice for Chile Rellenos, peppers stuffed with cheese, battered, and deep fried. The New Mexico line was developed by Dr. Fabián Garcia, at New Mexico State University in 1894, the first release being the New Mexico number 9 in 1913. Later the number 6 was released as a better shaped and firmer pepper for market, with a cooler "heat," at between 700 and 900 SHU.
The New Mexico line of peppers starts in 1894 by Dr. Fabian Garcia at the Las Cruces College and the New Mexico College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. Today this is New Mexico State University. These peppers were developed from 14 different cultivars from across the state and southern Colorado. In 1913 Dr. Garcia released the "New Mexico #9." Later, in 1950, Dr. Roy Harper released the New Mexico #6, which yielded 23% more dry chile than ‘New Mexico No. 9,’ and was particularly well suited for the processing industry, and for producing green chile peppers for the fresh market.
These peppers were considered slower to dry than N.M.#9, and be better shaped than Anaheim, and the general piquancy was reduced in strength to between 700 and 900 SHU or Scoville Heat Units, grew uniform "medium green" pods, and grew lower, with lower branches "When grown under average conditions."
Scoville Heat Units, or Scoville Scale, is a method developed by an American Pharmacist to measure the Piquancy of peppers. It became known as the "Scoville Organoleptic Test," and is the standard for measuring the "heat" of chili peppers. The test is subjective, since the variables between the ability to detect the compounds responsible for the sensation, and the number of sensors to detect it fluctuate dramatically between individuals.
Scoville determined the concentration of capsaicinoids by taking a sample and adding it until it was detectable by the test panel of 5 individuals. In other words, the test subjects would taste the sample, and determine if they could feel the heat, if the answer was no, the sample would be increased until 3 out of 5 people could detect it. The Scoville scale ranges between 0 and 16 million, 16 million being pure Capsacin, the most active compound.
Capsacin itself is tasteless and odorless. We think of it as taste, because it's usually the first sensation we get, but is better described as "pain" The oil activates pain receptors in our mucous membranes and other parts of the body, including parts that clearly have no taste buds; one reason everyone associates the "double sensation," going in, coming out. One hypothesis for the appeal of chili peppers is that the body manufactures endorphins, to counteract the pain, and endorphins themselves are pleasurable. One Mexican describes eating a very hot pepper, saying that "When you eat a Habanero, it's as if your head is detached from your body.".
These peppers were considered slower to dry than N.M.#9, and be better shaped than Anaheim, and the general piquancy was reduced in strength to between 700 and 900 SHU or Scoville Heat Units, grew uniform "medium green" pods, and grew lower, with lower branches "When grown under average conditions."
Scoville Heat Units, or Scoville Scale, is a method developed by an American Pharmacist to measure the Piquancy of peppers. It became known as the "Scoville Organoleptic Test," and is the standard for measuring the "heat" of chili peppers. The test is subjective, since the variables between the ability to detect the compounds responsible for the sensation, and the number of sensors to detect it fluctuate dramatically between individuals.
Scoville determined the concentration of capsaicinoids by taking a sample and adding it until it was detectable by the test panel of 5 individuals. In other words, the test subjects would taste the sample, and determine if they could feel the heat, if the answer was no, the sample would be increased until 3 out of 5 people could detect it. The Scoville scale ranges between 0 and 16 million, 16 million being pure Capsacin, the most active compound.
Capsacin itself is tasteless and odorless. We think of it as taste, because it's usually the first sensation we get, but is better described as "pain" The oil activates pain receptors in our mucous membranes and other parts of the body, including parts that clearly have no taste buds; one reason everyone associates the "double sensation," going in, coming out. One hypothesis for the appeal of chili peppers is that the body manufactures endorphins, to counteract the pain, and endorphins themselves are pleasurable. One Mexican describes eating a very hot pepper, saying that "When you eat a Habanero, it's as if your head is detached from your body.".
All peppers need heat in order to start, or sprout. Whether the seed is placed in starting mix, a moist paper towel, or actually started in the garden, the soil needs to be very warm, between 80° and 90° F (27° and 32° C), and the soil needs to be kept evenly moist, but not soggy. It's for that reason I do not recommend planting directly into the garden. Starter pots are fine. I start mine in newspaper pots. My favorite for rolling newspaper, near impossible to find today, or kraft paper into pots is an empty spray paint can. The bottom is recessed, and the base is concave so the pot can be removed relatively easily.
Seedlings can be hardened off outside after danger of frost is gone. Soil in the starters should be kept moist and not soggy. The young plants should be given full sun. Breezes will help by stimulating strength in the roots and stems. Once the seedlings are 4 inches in height, they can be placed in a large container or garden soil. Plants can be sprayed with compost tea, a culture of beneficial microorganisms that can help to fight disease and build nutrition in the soils.
In No-Till gardening, I will build a hill or raised row of compost and other organic matter about 2 feet (600 mm) wide and around 12 inches (300 mm) deep, planting New Mexico #6 transplants 18 inches apart. Mulching around the base of the plants with leaves, grass clippings, straw, etc., will cover and keep the soil cool, retain moisture, suppress weeds, and help to improve soil. This soil doesn't offer much support, and the weight of the peppers can pull the plants over, so they need to be staked and loosely tied so the stems will not be constricted. Strips of an old 100% cotton T-shirt work well, and will decompose.
Seedlings can be hardened off outside after danger of frost is gone. Soil in the starters should be kept moist and not soggy. The young plants should be given full sun. Breezes will help by stimulating strength in the roots and stems. Once the seedlings are 4 inches in height, they can be placed in a large container or garden soil. Plants can be sprayed with compost tea, a culture of beneficial microorganisms that can help to fight disease and build nutrition in the soils.
In No-Till gardening, I will build a hill or raised row of compost and other organic matter about 2 feet (600 mm) wide and around 12 inches (300 mm) deep, planting New Mexico #6 transplants 18 inches apart. Mulching around the base of the plants with leaves, grass clippings, straw, etc., will cover and keep the soil cool, retain moisture, suppress weeds, and help to improve soil. This soil doesn't offer much support, and the weight of the peppers can pull the plants over, so they need to be staked and loosely tied so the stems will not be constricted. Strips of an old 100% cotton T-shirt work well, and will decompose.
Here's a video showing the basic formula for producing Worm or Compost tea. I don't even use the fish emulsion or liquid seaweed. My thinking is that the plants don't benefit so much from foliar feeding as much as the microorganisms that live on the surface of the plants. With a good strong population of the healthy microorganisms, the unhealthy ones have a much harder time getting a foothold.
How To Make Compost Tea The Easy Way - MrTerrym1964
This is a simple and easy way to make starter pots for transplants. The great thing about using these is you plant the entire pot, and it decomposes in the soil leaving the roots undisturbed. If you're concerned with the inks, all newspapers use mineral and soy oil based inks. Though the mineral oil is petroleum based, it's non-toxic and acceptable for use in the garden. The black pigment is Carbon Black, and organic.
Newspaper Plant Pots by Michele Made Me - Michele Pacey
How To Make Compost Tea The Easy Way - MrTerrym1964
How To Make Compost Tea The Easy Way - YouTube
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[isdntekvideo]Newspaper Plant Pots by Michele Made Me - Michele Pacey
Newspaper Plant Pots by Michele Made Me - YouTube
Video will open in a new window
[isdntekvideo]- Seller Notes: “New, Tested February 2025, Germination at 88%”
- Climate: Tropical Plant, frost will kill itSub-tropicalTemperateTropical
- Planting Time: Starts fruiting 6 weeks, fruit matures in 9, continues fruiting.
- Common Name: New Mexico #6
- Indoor/Outdoor: Outdoor
- Color: Red and Green pods
- USDA Hardiness Zone (°F): Annual 4b to 10a, perennial southward
- Soil Type: LoamPeatSandSilt
- Brand: 4 Cats and a Herd Farm
- Season of Interest: Summer
- Soil pH: Neutral
- Type: Vegetable Seeds
- Watering: Mesic to Sub-xeric
- Life Cycle: Perennial in warm latitudes, Annual in colder. Frost will kill it
- Genus: Capsicum
- Sunlight: Full Sun
- Foliage: Evergreen
- Features: Edible
- Cultivating Difficulty: Moderate
- Country/Region of Manufacture: United States
- Species: Capsicum Annuum
- Cultivar: New Mexico #6
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Once your return is received and inspected:
- In-store returns are refunded to the original form of payment or issued as a gift card.
- Mail-in returns using our prepaid label are refunded to the original payment method within 3–5 business days after we receive your return.
Please allow:
- 5–7 business days for the return to reach our Returns Center.
- An additional 3–10 business days for your bank to post the refund to your account.
Damages, Issues & Claims
Please inspect your order immediately upon receipt.
If you receive a defective, damaged, or incorrect item, contact us right away at support@ibspot.com.
We’ll evaluate the issue promptly and make it right.
Product Claims
Before purchasing, please review product details carefully.
If there is a problem with your order upon arrival, visit our Support Center or contact us directly to arrange return shipping or replacement.
Exchanges
We do not process direct exchanges.
The fastest way to get what you need is to return the original item and place a new order once your return is accepted.
Return Address
IBSPOT Return Center
15 Sawmill Ln
Dover Plains, NY 12522
United States
Customer Support
Our support team is available 24/7 to assist with cancellations, returns, or general inquiries.
Email: support@ibspot.com
Contact Form: Contact Us page
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